brakes ?

hi sorry keep posting things that to you are probs dumb . but i have new disk pads on front upgraded them to 16v also new shoes in rear . also a new master cylinder . there is no air in the brake lines as checked more then once . and my brake peddle is hard . but my brakes are not very sharp . it is a j reg caddy pick up . iv checked to see if the brake compensator is free witch it is . so im lost now as to what could be . the caddy been parked up for wile so thought could be coz not been used but now the disk and so on are clean but still no difference any one have any ideas ? anything would be a great help thanks

caddy4life wrote:

hi sorry keep posting things that to you are probs dumb . but i have new disk pads on front upgraded them to 16v also new shoes in rear . also a new master cylinder . there is no air in the brake lines as checked more then once . and my brake peddle is hard . but my brakes are not very sharp . it is a j reg caddy pick up . iv checked to see if the brake compensator is free witch it is . so im lost now as to what could be . the caddy been parked up for wile so thought could be coz not been used but now the disk and so on are clean but still no difference any one have any ideas ? anything would be a great help thanks

i have rechecked to see no air in system and there seems to be non the pedal is hard but the rear shoes still move a bit wile peddle pressed could this be lack of use ? or what i no idea no more im lost lol

Brakes can be tricky items to get really right.

I'm interested to know by "16v " what you mean.
Do you mean you have converted the fronts to mk2 16v 256mm discs and pads or you've just put 16v pads in ?
(if its the later I'd like to see that)
any way moving forward,
I would take the front calipers off and exercise them a little, get someone to assist you on this, just take them off and pump the pedal a couple of times, push them back in and repeat a few times then replace the caliper, while the caliper is off rough up the fac of the pad with some course sandpaper.

Now turn your attention to the drums and shoes, this is where you need patience and a little experience.
Remove the wheel, the bearing and then the drum, rough up the shoes.
replace the drum, turn the drum on the stub axleso you can see the knurled adjustment wheel, turn this wheel with the aid of a thin screwdriver, turn until the drum becomes stiff, this is where you see if you can now turn the drum you are looking to centre the shoes in the drum.
if you manage to make it move with out it binding on the shoes you neeed to turn the adjustment wheel more. repeat this proces until the shoes dont bind but in one click of the adjustment wheel they will. this takes time to get right.
A good tip is to remove the tapered wedge, clean it up then be careful to put it back as it came out.

Normally drums are a pain to get right but if you have the patience you'll gain the experience to get it right. If you feel this is too much or you dont like to do it or want assistance I can and will do it for you, I'll show you how and my rates are pretty good. Call or txt 07791 001385

Remember, s**t brakes = short life.

thanks for the help and no i have got polo 6n 16v brakes aka caliper and so on i have built a few cars and never had a problem with brakes doing them in past . i found the problem though . it was the rear brake cylinders they where stuck i have no freed them up and just need to bleed them up . thank you again for your help .

Good job.

Clears up the 16v issue.

If you go to your profile, fill out the bit about yourself and what you drive,
This then is displayed on the left so everyone can see at a glance, it aids answering questions, otherwise staid old farms like me assume you have a Mk2 golf, seeing everything else is lesser.