head gasket replacement on a 16v kr???

anyone done one?

is it hard to lock the cam without a locking tool?

where's best to buy the headgasket kit? (needed tomorrow)

anything else relivent????

I guess its easy if you've done 1 before but as you ask, i guess this is your first time.

Give yourself plenty of time and a nice stock of teabags for the brews!


You'll need a spline socket for the head bolts. M12(iirc)

As its a conversion engine, most the bolts should be fairly easy to undo.

take the inlet off then the rocker cover.

You'll see a notch on the inside of the cambelt pulley. Line it up flush with the top of the head(closest the front). Once done, tipex marks on the crank pulley and belt so you know where the belt need to go back. You'll then be able to fit the cambelt as it was.

Dont worry about the intermediate pulley as it does'nt run the dizzy on 16v, only 8v.

CaddyRage wrote:

I guess its easy if you've done 1 before but as you ask, i guess this is your first time.

Give yourself plenty of time and a nice stock of teabags for the brews!


You'll need a spline socket for the head bolts. M12(iirc)

As its a conversion engine, most the bolts should be fairly easy to undo.

take the inlet off then the rocker cover.

You'll see a notch on the inside of the cambelt pulley. Line it up flush with the top of the head(closest the front). Once done, tipex marks on the crank pulley and belt so you know where the belt need to go back. You'll then be able to fit the cambelt as it was.

Dont worry about the intermediate pulley as it does'nt run the dizzy on 16v, only 8v.

i done the headgasket on the ex's 16v corsa, i got the head locking tool cos it had two cams on the side, the kr has one.

i have a fully stocked garage to use.

just need t know the quickest place to obtain a gasket set and do i need to replace the bolts?

Local parts retailer will stock the gasket and stretch bolts

yes replace the bolts


Buy a rocker gasket too. The original will most certainly leak then you'll have to remove the inlet all over again.

Also do an oil change as no doubt they'll be water in it

CaddyRage wrote:

Local parts retailer will stock the gasket and stretch bolts

yes replace the bolts


Buy a rocker gasket too. The original will most certainly leak then you'll have to remove the inlet all over again.

Also do an oil change as no doubt they'll be water in it

cool
cheers tons.

got no water in the oil. its just gone between the waterway and cylinder

its still worth changing the oil Dean. As for the kit maybe euro in Cambs if not i can order you one but it will be tuesday.

Dean, as for head bolts I've re used old ones many times but they are stretch bolts, you have to weigh up the cost.

Sorry lee but marking the head and timing pulleys up against the belt is a recipe for large fail.
Whip the head off, turn the crank to the correct position and then line everything else up as per the pic that I'll post in the morning, I'll post the pic of the tightening sequence too with the appropriate torque settings.

Oil and filter EVERY time too.

If you need the head tool I have one you can borrow.

While the head is off now is a good time to match the ports to the inlet manifold, I can help you do this and wash it in the parts bath after.
It doesnt take long and there are good benefits to be had from it.

If you do come over bring your inlet manifold too with the throttle body and we'll knife edge that. You really should have the head skimmed too or you could be wasting your time completely.

Euro car parts will be able to supply everything you need.

you have my number if you get stuck.

guy wrote:

Dean, as for head bolts I've re used old ones many times but they are stretch bolts, you have to weigh up the cost.

Sorry lee but marking the head and timing pulleys up against the belt is a recipe for large fail.
Whip the head off, turn the crank to the correct position and then line everything else up as per the pic that I'll post in the morning, I'll post the pic of the tightening sequence too with the appropriate torque settings.

Oil and filter EVERY time too.

If you need the head tool I have one you can borrow.

While the head is off now is a good time to match the ports to the inlet manifold, I can help you do this and wash it in the parts bath after.
It doesnt take long and there are good benefits to be had from it.

If you do come over bring your inlet manifold too with the throttle body and we'll knife edge that. You really should have the head skimmed too or you could be wasting your time completely.

Euro car parts will be able to supply everything you need.

you have my number if you get stuck.

cheers guy, but i don't think i can get them all "knife endged n cleaned" this time but definately will do soon.

i just need her up n running as quickly as possible.

but the pics would be a huge help.

As promised Dean...........





Tightening sequence and you will notice it does say you dont need to replace the bolts...........

Oh and when tensioning the belt pulley turn it towards the back of the car or it interferes with the belt cover and makes the most horendous noise.

Before starting the engine always always always turn the engine over BY HAND TWICE to make sure you have no clattering valves.
(take plugs out makes life easier)

You can lock the camshaft pulley with a pair of locking pliers, its not ideal but the correct position to time everything up with tends to be right on a lobe and so it wants to "walk" dont be tempted to use a spanner on it as this will surely undo causing more grief.

awsome guy!!!

and another thing???

where does the revcounter get its signal from on a kr engine, cos its not mechanical, and when the revs counter used to hit round about 4-5k it used to get a bit eratic. could that have been due to a outgoing headgasket???????????

Rev counter works off the ignition coil mate.

cheers mate, just got a dodgy counter then, lol

or dodgy wiring !

How did it go Dean ?

Did you get it done ?

guy wrote:

or dodgy wiring !

How did it go Dean ?

Did you get it done ?

tomorrow guy, doing her first thing, how long should this take guys?

Took me bloody ages to get the head off my 16v corrado! Had a bolt on the exhaust manifold that decided it didnt fancy coming off due to the prefious owner rounding it off. Couldnt get the nut cracker on it either as it was in such an awkward place

ok, so i started at 10am and finished at 2pm,

i'm chuffed with my effort and i done the whole lot on my own. to be honest i dont think it would have been any quicker if i had help.

but what did help loads was i removed the bonnet before i started, giving me loads of room. cheers guys for all your help!!!!

Glad to hear it dude

Lupton_20vt wrote:

Glad to hear it dude

thanks mate

well done on attempting something like that yourself. its all a learning curve isnt it

MarkGTX wrote:

well done on attempting something like that yourself. its all a learning curve isnt it

yeah, i mean it saved me tons of cash and i'm not scared of my engine any more, cost me £89 for the gasket set and bolts tho

£89 aint too bad when you think what it would have been. ive not done a gasket before but think i will soon, gonna swap the engine in the passat but im gonna do the gasket and seals on the new engine before it goes in.

im not scared of engines (only cos i know people like Guy and Tiz are only a phone call away!)

with me on the end of the phone you should be very scared of your engine Also mark i think its a good train of thought to leave a headgasket alone if it doesnt NEED doing, likelyhood is if its lasted a while without leaks etc it will last quite a while longer, when you go disturbing things and fitting new gaskets there is more chance it wont last so long, only my opinion from personal experience though, probably no logical thought to it at all.

ok, since doing the headgasket, now done 250 hastle free miles.

so i'm happy!